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What do parrots eat?

All any bird needs is seed, right? Not parrots. Although avian nutrition is still a relatively young field, experts agree that parrots need more than the box of seed you buy at the pet shop.

All seed diets tend to be high in fat and deficient in vitamin A, calcium and protein. While your bird may appear to thrive on seed, eventually the poor nutrition will cause serious health problems, which may include liver disease, respiratory infections and even blindness.

So what's on the well fed parrot's menu? Because the precise nutrition needs of various species have yet to be established, experts are still divided on the question.

Some avian veterinarians advocate roughly 50% cooked grains such as rice and oatmeal, 20% fresh fruits and 20% fresh vegetables, with the remainder consisting of nuts and beans for protein.

Healthy foods for your bird include corn on the cob, cooked pasta, plain popcorn, cooked oatmeal, barley, wheat bread or unsweetened breakfast cereals such as Shredded Wheat and Cheerios. Vegetables may include fresh greens such as spinach and broccoli, cooked yams, squash, sprouts, and carrots. Most birds love chopped fruits, such as apples, pears, plums, oranges and grapes, and bits of beef, chicken or fish.

In general, most parrots can eat just about anything that's safe and healthy for a human, as long as it doesn't contain caffeine or too much fat, salt, or sugar.


What if my parrot gets sick?

A good diet, a safe environment and plenty of rest will go a long way toward keeping your parrot well. However, chances are the time will come when your bird needs your help to recover from an illness or accidental injury. Make sure you've found a good avian vet before you need one. You'll also want to line up a good after hours emergency clinic for when your regular vet's office is closed.

Common wisdom holds that birds, being prey animals, are more adept than other creatures at hiding illness to avoid appearing vulnerable to predators. Whether true or not, it pays to watch closely for any change in your parrot's behaviour in order to nip illnesses in the bud. Once far along enough to be noticed, respiratory infections in particular can kill quickly.

Do not wait even a day to see if your bird's condition improves. If your parrot seems ill, call your vet immediately and follow his or her instructions.

The vet probably will want to see your bird right away.

Sick parrots sit fluffed and listless on their perches or, if an illness has progressed to a serious stage, on the bottom of the cage. A parrot with pneumonia or other serious condition may make a barely audible wheezing sound when it breathes, sneeze frequently, or have a nasal discharge. Its singing or speaking voice may sound different.

Droppings, normally target shaped and consisting of firm white and dark green parts (urine and fecal matter) may be consistently runny or a different colour. An occasionally runny dropping after a fright or stressful event is normal.

Sick or injured parrots should be kept in a warm place between 78 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit. Incubators make good infirmaries but most are expensive, priced at well over £200. Another option is to make your own hospital cage out of plywood, with a plexiglass front and a false bottom equipped with two or three light bulbs. Experiment with air holes and bulbs until you achieve the desired temperature.

For a quick hospital cage, train an adjustable lamp over your bird's covered cage, or place a heating pad against one side of the cage and encase it and the entire cage in plastic wrap. Seal loosely along the bottom with towels and cut flaps in the plastic on the front of the cage for fresh air and access to the bird and food cups. Adjust the wrap as needed to maintain the desired temperature.

Place a thermometer inside your hospital cage so you can monitor the temperature and adjust as necessary. If your bird gets too warm, he will hold his wings apart from his body, open his beak to pant, or both. Always make sure your bird has plenty of food and water to drink in his hospital cage. If he is very weak, you may want to remove perches so he doesn't fall and injure himself.